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Leak Detection Adelaide: Find the Hidden Leak Before It Finds Your Slab

Close-up of a RIDGID SeeSnake CCTV monitor and cable reel on brick paving, with a gloved hand on the reel.

Start with the water meter, because it settles the question for free. Turn off every tap and appliance, read the meter, wait 30 minutes without using water, then read it again. Movement means water is escaping somewhere on your side of the meter. No movement means the high bill is usage rather than a leak, and paying for leak detection would be wasted money. Where the meter does move, acoustic listening, thermal imaging and tracer gas locate the leak precisely enough to open up 1 square metre of slab instead of 10.

Related: Burst Pipes · Leaking Taps · CCTV Drain Inspection

Do the meter test first, before you call anyone

This takes half an hour and it tells you whether you have a leak. Do it before spending money on anybody, including us.

  1. Turn off every tap inside and out, and stop the washing machine, dishwasher, irrigation controller, pool auto-fill and evaporative air conditioner. A running toilet will show up as a leak, so deal with that first or allow for it.
  2. Find the meter, normally at the front boundary, and write down every digit including the small red or black ones. Those are litres, and they are where a slow leak shows.
  3. Look for the leak indicator: a small triangle, star or dial that spins on tiny flows. If it is turning with everything off, water is moving right now.
  4. Wait 30 minutes and use no water. Longer is better for a slow leak, and overnight is the definitive version of the test.
  5. Read the meter again. Any change with nothing running means water is escaping on your side of the meter.
  6. Narrow it down. Close the isolating tap on the property side of the meter and watch again. A meter that stops means the leak is beyond that valve, inside the property. A meter that keeps moving means the leak is on the service line under the front yard, path or driveway.

Whose leak is it, yours or SA Water's

This decides who pays, and the boundary is simpler than most people expect. SA Water owns the water main in the street and the meter itself. From the outlet side of that meter onwards the pipework is the property owner's: the service line crossing the front yard, everything under the house, and every fitting inside it.

The same split applies to wastewater. The sewer main is SA Water's and the private drain from the house to the connection point is the owner's, which is why a fault on the private drain is a plumbing job while the identical fault 3 metres further along is a phone call to SA Water. Establishing which side of that line a fault sits on is part of the work.

Strata and unit properties add a layer. Where several dwellings sit behind a single meter, the leak can be on shared infrastructure and the cost sits with the body corporate rather than the resident whose bathroom is wet.

The signs of a concealed leak

Most concealed leaks announce themselves long before the bill does.

  • A warm or hot patch on a tiled or concrete floor. That is a hot water line leaking under the slab, and it is the most reliable sign on this list.
  • The sound of running water when nothing is on, most obvious at night, or pressure that has dropped across the whole house rather than at a single tap.
  • A patch of lawn that stays green through an Adelaide February while everything around it browns off, or ground that is soft and never dries.
  • Mould, blistering paint, lifting skirting or a musty smell in a room with no obvious water source.
  • Tiles sounding hollow, a crack that keeps moving, or doors sticking on one side of the house only.

The last of those is why an under-slab leak is a structural issue and not just a water bill. Adelaide sits on reactive clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry, and a footing system is designed around the soil beneath it moving more or less evenly. A leak keeps a single pocket of that clay saturated while the rest of the site dries through summer, and the differential movement that follows is what cracks slabs, jams doors and opens gaps at cornices.

How leaks are actually found

No single instrument finds every leak. The skill is matching the method to the pipe.

MethodWhat it doesWhere it works bestWhere it does not
Pressure and isolation testingIsolates sections and watches for pressure decayConfirming a leak exists and narrowing it to a circuitPinpointing a location on its own
Acoustic listeningAmplifies the sound a pressurised leak makes escaping the pipeMains and service lines under slabs, paths and yardsDrains, which carry no pressure to make a sound
Thermal imagingReads surface temperature differencesHot water lines in slabs and walls, and wet areas cooling by evaporationCold water leaks with no temperature contrast
Tracer gasA safe hydrogen and nitrogen mix escapes through the leak and is detected at the surfaceSmall leaks, plastic pipe, noisy sites, anywhere acoustics failLines that cannot be drained and isolated
CCTV camera and sonde locatorFilms inside a drain and marks its position and depth from the surfaceSewer and stormwater faults, cracked pipe, root intrusionPressurised supply lines, which the camera cannot enter
Detection methods and what each is genuinely good for

A real job chains 2 or 3 of these. Isolation testing proves the leak is on the hot circuit, thermal imaging narrows it to a section of floor, acoustic listening puts a mark on the tile. That sequence is what lets a repair open a single square metre instead of a room.

What leaks in Adelaide homes, and where

Marc has spent 20 years across this housing stock, and what leaks where follows the build era more closely than the suburb.

  • Pre-1940s villas and bungalows through Goodwood, Unley, Malvern and Norwood: galvanised steel supply pipe corroding from the inside. Failure is by pinhole, and pinholes arrive in clusters because the whole run is the same age.
  • Interwar and 1950s to 1960s homes in Colonel Light Gardens, Cumberland Park, Panorama and Mitcham: first-generation copper at the end of its life, including the under-slab hot water line that presents as a warm floor and is the most expensive leak to ignore.
  • Early polyethylene service lines from the 1970s and 1980s: brittle with age, failing at fittings and where they pass under a driveway.
  • Coastal suburbs including Glenelg, Hove and Brighton: external fittings and garden taps corroding in salt air, plus a high water table that slows any excavation.
  • Hills properties through Blackwood, Belair, Stirling and Aldgate: long private service runs from meter to house, tank and pump plumbing, and ground movement on steep reactive blocks. A leak 60 metres from the house shows nothing near the house.

The pattern that catches people out is the second failure. Once a galvanised or early copper system produces its first pinhole, the rest of that run carries the same age, water and wall thickness. Patching that first leak is correct in the moment, and it is also when the conversation about replacing the run should start.

When it is not a leak at all

Plenty of high water bills are not leaks, and a detection callout on a property with a still meter is money spent for nothing. We would rather say so here than take the booking.

  • Evaporative air conditioning. Through an Adelaide summer these use serious volumes, and a stuck float or a badly set bleed turns that into a continuous run to the drain. Bills climb in December and January for this reason alone.
  • Irrigation. A solenoid that does not fully close, a controller running 2 programmes it was never meant to, or a sub-surface line cut by a spade. That is real water use, fixed at the controller.
  • A pool or water feature topping up, because evaporation over an Adelaide summer is significant and an auto-fill quietly covers it.
  • A running toilet, the most common cause of a mysteriously high bill anywhere, and free to check with food colouring in the cistern.
  • The billing period itself. A quarter with more days in it, or an estimated read followed by an actual read, both look like a leak and are not.
  • A change in the household. Visitors, a new occupant, a new appliance. Unglamorous, and frequently the answer.

What happens on the day

Detection and repair are quoted separately, because until the leak is located nobody can price the repair honestly.

On the day, Marc texts an arrival time before setting off. The visit starts at the meter and the isolation points, because confirming the leak and identifying its circuit comes first. The location is then marked physically on the surface, and you are told what the repair involves and what it will cost before anything is opened up. Rerouting a line is sometimes the better answer than breaking a slab, and where that is the case we say so.

Questions we get asked

How do I know if I have a water leak?

Use the meter. Turn off every tap and appliance, including irrigation, the pool auto-fill and the evaporative air conditioner, then record every digit on the water meter. Wait 30 minutes using no water and read it again. Any movement means water is escaping on your side of the meter. Many meters also carry a small leak indicator triangle or dial that spins on very low flows, so if that is turning with everything off you have your answer immediately. Overnight is the more sensitive version of the same test.

Who is responsible for a water leak in Adelaide, me or SA Water?

SA Water is responsible for the water main and the meter. The property owner is responsible for all pipework from the outlet side of the meter onwards, which includes the service line crossing the front yard, everything under the house and every fixture inside. The same boundary applies to wastewater: SA Water owns the sewer main, the owner owns the private drain running to the connection point. Working out which side of that line a fault sits on is part of a proper investigation, because it decides who pays for the repair.

Can I get a high water bill reduced if a hidden leak caused it?

It is worth asking. SA Water has a process for reviewing a high bill, and where a concealed leak has been found and repaired promptly by a licensed plumber there may be relief available on the affected period. The criteria are set by SA Water and they change, so confirm the current position with SA Water directly rather than assuming. Keep the plumber's dated invoice and a written description of the leak and the repair, because that is the evidence any review will ask for.

Can you find a leak under a concrete slab without breaking it up?

Yes. That is exactly what detection is for. The leak is located from above using acoustic listening, thermal imaging and tracer gas, and the position is marked on the surface. The slab only gets opened at that mark, and typically that means around 1 square metre rather than a room. In some cases the better answer is to abandon the failed section entirely and reroute the line through a wall or ceiling space, which avoids cutting the slab at all. Which option wins depends on the pipe run, the floor covering and how many fixtures sit on that line.

Does thermal imaging see through walls and floors?

No. A thermal camera reads surface temperature only. What makes it useful is that a leak transfers heat or evaporative cooling to the surface above it, which produces a readable pattern. That makes it excellent for hot water lines in a slab and for tracing wet areas behind a wall, and close to useless for a cold water pinhole with no temperature contrast. It is part of a sequence, not the whole method.

My meter is turning but I cannot see any water anywhere. Where is it going?

Into the ground, under the slab or into a cavity, which is exactly why concealed leaks get expensive. Adelaide clay soils absorb a substantial volume before anything shows at the surface, so a leak on a service line can run for weeks with no visible sign beyond a patch of lawn that stays green. Close the isolating tap on the property side of the meter: if the meter stops, the leak is beyond that valve inside the property, and if it keeps running, the leak is on the service line between the meter and the house.

Do you find gas leaks as well as water leaks?

Marc is a licensed gas fitter as well as a licensed plumber, so yes, gas leak testing and repair is within scope. Treat a suspected gas leak differently from a water leak, though. If you can smell gas, do not operate light switches or anything that could spark, open the doors and windows, turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely, get everyone outside, and call your gas distributor's emergency line first. Once the site is safe, the fault gets pressure tested and located properly.

Suburbs we cover for leak detection

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